Ixia and I

When the weather is good in Belgium you take advantage of it. I have spent consecutive weeks without seeing the sun. Which coming from 300 days of sunshine Colorado, it takes time to adjust. Finally, we had a forecast for sun with minimal wind and warmer temperatures. Originally we were gonna go sailing, but decided to postpone it until next weekend. Our friend, Daniel, invited us to come on his boat, Ixia, and do a tour of the canals in our area. It was absolute bliss. We had brunch on board at the Sas van Gent harbor then set sail to Wachtebeke to have sangrias on the shoreline. There isn't too much to be said, except it was exactly the dose of sunshine I needed to hold me off until the real summer temps arrive. Hopefully, we will be able to meet Daniel this June in Paris and do a few more trips together on the lovely, Ixia.

Things to know before you go

Wallonian Château

     My aunt asked me to give advice to a pair of young women (friends of hers) who will be vacationing in Europe in the near future. Not that I am, by any means, an authority on the whole of Europe, but after living in Belgium for the last nine months I can at least compile a list of a few do's and don'ts. Not just for tourists, but also for expats planning to move abroad to Vlaanderen (the Flemish region of Belgium). I make this distinction because I found it very difficult to obtain information about Belgium from other American/English expats who weren't referring to life in Brussels. I am sure Brussels is a fantastic place to live, but to me it represents the culture of typical Vlaanderen towns, like life in NYC is to living in middle America. For most, Brussels is where they will end up due to all the EU, UN, and NATO related jobs. Life where I live, in a small town on the border with the Netherlands, things operate without a lot of the same comforts for expats.

Gent

     Luckily, throughout Vlaanderen "most" people speak a decent amount of English and it doesn't end there (they also speak French, German, Spanish, Italian, and even some Turks, as well as plenty of languages). Being such a small, yet central nation, Belgium has learned to adapt. So on the other hand Flemish Belgians appreciate it, but don't expect it, but APPRECIATE IT (if you catch my drift), when you speak their language as well. I don't think that most English speakers have the capacity to empathize with the frustrations faced by non native English speaking cultures. Therein, lies some of the annoyance that other countries have towards us. Tip: Learn at least a few words before you arrive. Here is a good youtube channel that I used when I was learning the basics. It is incredibly easy with the use of the internet and a few flash cards to not fall into that aforementioned category. You will definitely be well received, even if you make mistakes.

     Belgians proudly refer to themselves as the real Burgundians, which means they don't f**k around when it comes to eating, drinking, or entertaining. The level of care and detail that the average Belgian puts into a meal is shocking to most Americans. I should know, when my husband lived in America and would cook for my family or friends every meal was "amaaaazing". Vlaanderen has TV programs dedicated to competing over who can best entertain a group of strangers. Being Belgians, they have no reservations about openly criticizing a less than Michelin-star-level meal. Actually it makes me laugh now that I look back because if you really hit it out of the park they won't go crazy with the adulations, but you make one mistake and the typical Belgian eye rolls and raised eyebrows are abundant. Americans must learn not to take these facial expressions too seriously. Generally it just means that they want to have a laugh about it, but I am still learning not to feel insulted. Beyond entertaining, the Burgundian lifestyle invades even the smallest facets. Belgians don't walk around while eating.  When they buy street food (frites for example) they take a seat on a bench or wall and share with their friends. It even goes so far as to they don't like to move around while drinking. When I came to Belgium I was confused to why there wasn't a coffee shop where I could buy a coffee to go. Everywhere, in my town, when you order a coffee it is served on plate accompanied by sugar, milk and a cookie or chocolate.  For Belgians drinking coffee is equivalent to drinking a beer. You sit down to enjoy the experience and never rush. Here is the tip: If drinking, even a coffee, is supposed to be a pleasant and lingering venture then share with thy neighbor. If you sit down in a café (Belgian bar/coffee house) and start talking to the person next to you or go out with a group of friends, buy a round of drinks for your acquaintances. Or reversely if someone offers you a drink, accept it, and return the favor by buying the next round. Always say saunté, proost, or gezondheid and lift your glass, before drinking the drink from your friend. It doesn't matter which one, just choose one to say and they will be impressed. This is something that is not common in American unless it is for a special occasion. If you are worried about your wallet, don't. In the end it all get's paid back in full and you will have a great time chatting it up with an array of lively people. Let's just say that if you choose not to do this, you will be thought of as American (and not in a good way). I don't want to ramble on about this subject, I easily could, but there is one other funny factoid about Burgundian lifestyle. Most Belgian cars don't have drink holders. I wasn't kidding when I said they don't like to move while drinking.

So many tasty beers to choose from.

      So you have learned a few key phrases, sat down at a café and ordered a "pintje" (tap beer) for your new Belgian friend. Next tip: be careful to not to drink too much and become noisy and obnoxious. One time while out to dinner in a rather large rib house, my husband pointed out to me how quiet it was. Not eerily quiet, but no one was so loud that you could here their conversation from your table. I can remember plenty of times when you go out to eat in America and there is a group of (sorry to say) women drinking together enjoying the weekly lady's night out. After the second or third round of drinks the women seem as though they are competing with each other to see who can talk louder or produce the most ear-splitting cackle. Yes, everyone has a little too much to drink from time to time, especially when on vacation. Just try to keep the noise level in check. Next to Russians, Americans are considered to be some of the most boisterous tourists around (just sayin').
 
There are a lot of other tips that don't need an explanation:

*Fair warning these tips are to the best of my knowledge, if there is an error or it is not explained clearly then don't murder me. I know that a lot of these explanations are not compelely accurate but for the sake of someone who is visiting for a few days or has just arrived this seems to be the easiest way to explain Dutch (the language) and Belgian culture. For those who want to really invest in learning everything properly, please enroll in your local ISBO for Dutch classes*

• In most areas of Vlaanderen, shops and stores are closed on Sunday and may even close early on Saturday. In Belgium you cannot buy aspirin or other common OTC medicines in the grocery store or gas station. You must go to a "Apotheek" or pharmacy. They usually have a large green cross in front of the store. There you must ask for what you need. OTC medicines usually don't need a Rx. Birth control you do. They might be willing to give you one month in an emergency situation, but eventually you must provide an Rx from a doctor (I think it must be from a Belgian doctor, I am not sure if an American script would work). This means if you feel sick on friday night it can become difficult to get aspirin or other OTC's on Saturday or Sunday. Plus I think you have to pay more. I brought a bottle of Ibuprofen and other OTC meds with me, as I do anywhere in the world. Also if you are looking for baking soda, this is where you buy it. It is called "zuiveringszout".
• You don't have to tip. If it looks like it is a student working during their break you can always round up or give an extra euro tip, but normally a tip is not expected. 
• a.u.b. means alstublieft.
  This has two meanings "please" (Één pintje a.u.b. = One beer please) or "here you go". For example, when you give money to the cashier you would say "a.u.b" as you hand him/her the money. They will say "a.u.b" when they give you your change or when they serve you something (beer, food, etc).
• Eet smakelijk = bon appétite = enjoy your meal. I have had random strangers say it to me when they see me carrying home food from a restaurant. haha. Typically, they say it when you are about to eat whether they served you the food, are sitting close to you, or generally see you about to eat then, eet smakelijk!
• "j" sound like our "y", so "je" is pronounced like "ye" as in "yellow". "je" /"jij" means "you". "Heb je honger?" literally means "Do you have hunger?" or  "Are you hungry?".
• "k" is hard. For example "coffee" is written as "koffie" and more or less is pronounced the same way. 
• In the Netherlands to say "goodbye" typically is "dooi" which is pronounced as "dooey"*. In Belgium they say a lot of different things but typically in café or store you can say "salutjes" (remember the "j" is pronounced like a "y") or "dag" (the "a" in "dag" is pronounced like when your doctor tells you to say "aaah" it does not have the "a" sound similar to the english word "bag").
• Belgium has an excellent public transportation system. If you are going to use the buses more than once I recommend buying a "Lijnkaartje" (De Lijn is the name for the bus system in Vlaanderen, kaartje means small card) They are 9 euro and you can buy them at convenience stores ("nachtwinkel" at night), "benzinestation" (gas station), or if you can find one the "Lijnwinkel" (the store/offices for the bus system). This cuts the price of a bus journey down buy 40% compared to paying when you step on the bus. Just stick your card in the machine in front of the driver and say where you want to go plus a.u.b. For example, "Gent a.u.b" or "stationstraat a.u.b".
• Taxis are expensive and sparse so stick to trains, trams, and buses. 

Key phrases:

• Where is the...                 = Waar is de/het....
• Bathroom                        = toilette or W.C. (pronounced "way say")
• Train station                    = treinstation
• Bus station                      = busstation
• Airport                            = luchthaven
• Hotel                               = hotel  
• I am from America          = Ik kom uit (sounds like english word "out") Amerika.    
• I don't speak dutch          = Ik spreek geen Nederlands (see this link for an pronunciation help)
• Do you speak English?   = Speekt u engels?
• Can I have a coffee         = Één koffie a.u.b.
• Can I have...                   =  ... a.u.b
• beer (tap)                        = pintje
• beer (bottle)                    = flesje
• glass                               = glas
• wine                               = wijn
• red                                  = rood/rode (pronounce the "e") 
• white                              = wit/witte (pronounce the "e")
• sandwhich                      = boterham 
• How much is it?             = Hoeveel?
• the bill/tab                      = rekening
• Thank you                     = Dank u wel

* if you are visiting don't worry too much about which to use (i.e. rood v. rode) and also with

"het v. de (waar is de/het...)" just choose one if you are not sure.

• right                       = rechts  
• on the right side     = op de rechterkant
• left                         = links  
• on the left side       = op de linkerkant
• straight                  = rechtdoor

Spreekt u engels?

If you can get your smartphone or even a normal phone, "jail broken" before you leave, you can purchase a SIM card once you land and use your phone here. It is best to get it jail broken through your provider, especially if you have an Iphone. I didn't and my phone locked up when I tried to update it. Also, if you have a smart phone that you can use wifi ( pronounced wee fee here) is pretty common and you can access it in most cafés and hotels/hostels. Download the google translate app before you go. It is not always accurate, but can definitely not hurt to have. Other good apps to have when traveling in Europe are: 

• Spotted by Locals. You can download a city map (for free) that you can zoom in and out of on your phone without using wifi. If you pay the extra 5.00 euro you can get the map loaded with suggestions from locals of cool places to go.
• De Lijn. This is the app for the bus system in Belgium. The website can be in English but I think the app is only in Dutch or French. If you don't know enough of either, then use the map feature on your smart phone or laptop and set it to public transportation, the bus icon. (I have a Iphone 3 and I think it is google maps that I use).
• If you are staying for a while then I recommend the apotheek app. It lists all the pharmacies in your area and which ones are open. See above post about pharmacies in Belgium.
• USE-IT.TRAVEL This isn't an app but it is an excellent website for visiting major European cities. You can print out their map at home or if you visit the major cities, i.e. Brussels, you can pick one up from their offices. It provides info about everything you would need and it won't be the cooker cutter crap that Lonely Planet or Fodors will tell you to do.
• Her Packing List. This is a great website that offers all sorts of travel suggestions, and as the name implies, packing lists for women. Which my only suggestion as far as packing goes is to bring a change purse. Everything below 5 euro is coins. It can become heavy and a hassel if you just stuff it in your pocket. But that is probably on one of the suggested lists.

     As a reminder, this is all my own opinion after living in a pretty typical small to average size town. Of course in Antwerp, Gent, *Brugge and *Brussels (*especially) you will see a lot of exceptions to these tips. Even in these bigger cities, keep in mind that just because other tourists behave in a certain way doesn't make it more acceptable. Your cultural awareness and sensitivity will not go unnoticed.

Don't end up asleep at your next nightclub

     

"single" white female

So in love with mid century modern... *le sigh*

         Oh the joys of not having a car. I bought a very large bureaukast from the secondhand store. I had one week to figure out a way to bring it home. Today was the last day and I didn't want to lose my money so I finally decided to try and wheel it home piece by piece with my little market trolley (max weight capacity 50 lbs)

Yep this is the trolley I was referring to.

Luckily, the store let me borrow their industrial size trolley. (Probably out of pity because they knew my trolley wouldn't make it) So I push the trolley home (in the middle of the street because there is no way I can fit on the sidewalk) cars whizzing past me. Everyone already thinks I am strange, this did not help my image.  Finally home, I had to try to figure out how I was going to get the enormous bureaukast up three (very narrow) flights of stairs to my apartment... First two pieces weren't too bad. The market trolley was actually useful for that part. The last and largest piece... well that is where things got interesting. I tried first, to bring it up on its back. The trolley would have made it and it was stable, but those damn stairs where too narrow.

Used my snow boots to try and give some perspective.

 *Side note here, if you have ever climbed to the top of a cathedral or lighthouse you might have some semblance of an idea to what I mean by a narrow stairway. *

This is looking down from the top floor (our floor) down. The corners are extremely tight and the ceiling doesn't open up until the last ten steps.

Cool! An old periodic table!!!

     So the next best plan was to hope that my husband would come home at lunch and help me. With two people it would be no problem to maneuver it through the Hogwarts-style staircase. My luck being what it typically is, the hubby couldn't take a break to come home. I wanted to just leave it on the trolley and wait for backup. I mean, that seems to be the most logical choice. Then I remembered that the lady at the secondhand store was just starting to warm up to me and bringing the trolley back hours later would not be a step in the right direction. This means I needed super-human-lifting-a-car-off-a-baby-level strength. Hmmm.... COFFEE!!! Okay one cup later and fueled with pure determination I precariously tied the last huge piece on it's most narrow, and most unstable, side and pulled that sucker up those G.D. stairs. I may or may not have thrown out my back, but hey! Who needs a car, a man, or a working elevator to get things done?  After patting my self on my very sore back, I hobbled the trolley back to the store and laid down to ice my back.  Mission accomplished!!!!!!!!!!

And some creepy... I don't know what that is supposed to say, but the person who last studied here didn't seem to like it.

Oh and by the way, I have to give credit where credit is due (even if it is to a fictional tv character). Ron Swanson was right if you scratch up your wooden furniture just rub walnut into the wood to mask the scratches. It really works. The picture from the side of the desk is where I totally scratched it up while desperately trying to get it up the stairs. You can't see a single scratch, even from close up.  I didn't, however, follow the second piece of advice from Ron Swanson. I love my dog and won't get rid of her. Even if she is under 50 pounds and by Ron's description my dog is considered a cat and to him cats are pointless.

I AMsterdam

I think that your expectation of Amsterdam really depends on why you have come here. A lot of people hear Amsterdam and they think late nights and smoking copious amounts of MJ. While that is definitely something that you can do here, it is by far not everything that Amsterdam has to offer. Unfortunately, we are only staying for two days, yet at the same time it is nice because this changes our view of the city. I know I can come back when ever I want, so I don't need to go crazy. On the other hand, a lot of people I know who have come to Amsterdam have had to save a lot of money, endure a long trans-Atlantic flight, and probably won't be able to come back. So here is the category of people that (typically) just let it all hang out. I get the impression that there is so so much to see and do in Amsterdam that some people really do themselves a disservice by remaining in a alcohol/drug induced haze. I have not been so absolutely enamored by what a city, since going to San Francisco for the first time.

We are staying in the "museum kwartier" which as the name implies is located right in the middle of a bunch of museums. This area also has street after street of high end shopping. Louis Vuitton and Chanel are literally around the corner from my hotel. The buildings are so chic with beautiful details like rod iron balconies, white trimmed window sills and an array of custom (and what I assume to be original) stained glass windows. The streets are lined with trees and antique light polls, that despite the weather hovering just above freezing, it can only be described as idyllic. Down the street is a huge open space in front of the Rijkmuseum that has the iconic "I AMsterdam" statue in front of it. Is it totally silly that one of my best memories was letting Belle run leash free around the green space? It was almost symbolic of how I was feeling when I saw the pure joy of her chasing after other dogs surround by so many famous museums and architecture.

After settling in to our hotel, Bilderberg Hotel Jan Luyken, we headed out to the Rai convention center for HISWA (the Amsterdam boat show). On a side note, the best way to get around Amsterdam is to purchase a tram pass. We used the free internet on the train to figure out where we needed to go and which tram to use. (You can use google maps and set it give you public transportation directions). Or if you know the area of where you are staying you can always go old fashion and use the tram map at the train station. You can purchase the tickets/passes when you board the tram, usually from the attendant in the back of the tram. We bought a 24 hour "day" ticket, as it will cover us for the duration of our stay. You have to "beep it" (technical term for activate) both when you board the tram and ALSO when you get off. So don't put your ticket away until you are off the tram. We took the 16 line from Amsterdam Centraal Station to "Museumplein" which means museum square. Anyone who has ever used public transportation should be able to figure it out. If you still can't get your barrings and are totally lost, don't panic. Everything is written in English and I would be shocked if you found any person walking around that didn't speak English and/or wasn't willing to help you. From our hotel at the Musuemplein stop we took the 12 line to Victoriaplein and then switched to the 4 line which takes you directly to the Rai convention center. You can't miss it, it is massive. After two hours of boats, paint, decking, and rope, we sat down with a friend of Jan's (because of course he knows someone every where ever he goes) had a Heineken and plotted our evening.

I was really keen on eating Indonesian food while I was here. Indonesia was a former colony of The Netherlands, therefore the food is very popular. Just like how curries and other Indian foods are extremely popular in England. We were fortunate enough to have and I quote, "the best Indonesian restaurant in the entire country"(Sama Sebo) around the corner. However, we were not fortunate enough to get a table. Assuming that we could just, walk in at 8:00 at night and grab a table was a little over ambitious of us. It was tiny and packed with people. It looked fantastic, but it was nothing to worry about. I just put it on the list for next time. We did get some delicious Indian cuisine. You know it is at least semi-decent when there is a table of Indian men enjoying their meal and the owner, plus the kitchen staff are Indian. It was the first time that I ordered vindaloo curry and it was actually spicy. So definite points for that much. Don't ask where it was because I have no idea. We just wandered around until we found something that peaked our interest. 

Finally, the night was in front of us and we headed straight to one of the most famous cafés, Bolle Jan. This place is tiny and what made it seems even more tiny was that it was filled with drunk Dutch comrades singing their beloved folk songs. This café is really famous because both René Froger and André Hazes were discovered there, or something like that. If you want to see Dutch people being proud and, well, Dutch. This is the place to be. Definitely fun, if you can manage to squeeze in.

A few more cafés and a few more horse piss beers (a.k.a. Heineken, Jan's words not mine). We finally called it a night when the roads had sufficiently been saturated by the non-stop rain (huge puddles) and the rain turned to sleet. Nothing too crazy. Sorry to disappoint. Again, I will put "go crazy" on the list for next time. That is what Queen's Day 2013 is for!!!

 This is the only picture of me in Amsterdam. I was sick as could be and it was freezing outside. I was just happy to have enough energy to snap a few pictures of Belle and the flower market. We still had four hours of trains and buses to catch for me to get back into bed.

Zelzate is for lovers

     I know Valentine's Day is dreaded holiday for most people, even those who aren't single, but it was actually one of the first holidays that has been truly enjoyable for me and Jan. No fighting, good food, and I even got my laptop back after nine months of waiting. I needed a day like yesterday.

     It has been a roller coaster ride since moving to Belgium. Some days are good and some days I truly wonder what the hell I am doing here. On Wednesday I had a huge setback to getting my residency sorted out. After months of following up, doing as I am told, and dealing with apathetic bureaucrats, I was told that I have to start all over again. Luckily, my husband is used to dealing with this sort of crap. Unluckily I am not. I wanted to reach over the counter and strangle this evil woman. She has done nothing but be rude and has barely communicated anything to me, while "helping" me get my residency papers. She actually started laughing at me when I was trying to explain that she had said I had until March to get all my paperwork finished. I then asked her to please call my husband to notify him of what was happening. She said, "It is not my job to call your husband."I reminded her that since he is included in all my paperwork and is the reason I am applying for residency, that yes, in fact she is legally required to notify him. Really??? How little could she give a shit about her responsibilities. And this is just the latest incident where she didn't follow through and do her job properly. Blerghhh.... I thought if one more snot faced person pushed my buttons I was going to take the hint and leave. I can't express how different it has been for me living in Belgium and living in Korea. It is not that I am here to bash on Belgium. I just think that any country after Korea was going to have big boots to fill. Or maybe I am just being nice. I have tried ten times harder to assimilate here than I ever did in Korea. I even changed the way I hold my utensils!! This is becoming ridiculous. I think the best thing to do is to really stop caring so much if people like me or not, if am being culturally sensitive enough. Trying to break the stereotype of being an asshole American. Who cares?? I need to stand up for myself.

                             

I'm here. I'm American...

  


Okay enough ranting and raving! I feel better. Let's get me legal and get a job.

Belle doesn't mind Belgium.